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In late January of 2010 I embarked upon a journey to Turkey and Egypt that proved to be life-changing. This sacred journey triggered a quickening in my evolution. Our first destination was Istanbul.

A small group of us – six women – started out from the Bay Area, California. We touched down in Istanbul smack into a blizzard with sub-zero temperatures, but even the cold and wet sleet could not dampen our excited spirits. A thriving megacity with a population of 12 million, Istanbul is prosperous, modern, ancient and exotic all at once. Located on the Bosporus Strait and hugging a natural harbor famously named the Golden Horn, Istanbul straddles both the European and Asian side of the Bosporus, making it the only metropolis that sits on two continents.

Historically called Byzantium and Constantinople, Istanbul was capital of the Eastern Roman Empire (395–1204 and 1261–1453), also the Ottoman Empire (1453–1922). The stones, pavements, tiles, rubble–even the very air of this ancient city ooze history and culture.
The world famous Topkapi Palace attests to the opulence and stylish splendor of the Ottoman Empire. Spellbound, we wandered through the palace grounds thickly covered in snow. Topkapi was built by the first ruler of the Ottoman Empire, Sultan Mehmed II, and served as the primary residence of the Ottoman Sultans for 400 years of their 600-year reign. Consisting of four huge courtyards and adjoining buildings, the sprawling palace complex boasted over 4,000 occupants in its heyday.

The incessant, thick snowfall evoked a magnetic ambience! We drank in the rich plethora of Ottoman miniatures, Islamic calligraphic manuscripts, blue and white Chinese celadon, murals, fabulous treasures and jewelry. Intricately embossed inscriptions of ultramarine blue and gold leaf and tiles of jewel-colored geometric designs adorned the Harem.

We marveled at the 86 carats pear-shaped Spoonmaker’s diamond. And gaped at brilliant emeralds, tourmalines, rubies and south sea pearls that are bigger than large grapes.
I especially marveled at the sanctity of the Hagia Sophia. Topped by a massive dome, this stone basilica is considered the quintessence of Byzantine construction and is said to have “changed the history of architecture.” Giant wall paintings of the Seraphim vibrated with an intense electric presence and started to glow, and for a moment I felt swept into Eternity’s embrace of golden Light. I could have stayed in that space for days.

The Blue Mosque perched on a hill overlooking the Marmara Sea, is a living example of symmetry, elegance, and geometric ingenuity of Mosque architecture.

In a park next to the Blue Mosque, we visited the remnants of the once-humongous Hippodrome. Originally used for chariot racing and other public events, the stadium used to hold over 100,000 people. It was the center of life in Byzantine Constantinople for over 1,000 years and of Ottoman life in Istanbul for over 400 years. But now only very little is left of this once-glorious splendor. The most notable remaining column is the Egyptian Obelisk, which was built in Egypt in 1500 BC and once stood in Luxor before Emperor Constantine brought it to his city.

We enjoyed our tour of the Grand Bazaar, where my friends bargained with tireless shop keepers and bought evil-eye amulets, lamps, and candle holders. We couldn’t resist sampling the scores of tempting Turkish Delight candies in the Spice Market. And since a trip to Turkey wouldn’t be complete without a Turkish bath, we had the complete treatment at a localhamams. Turkish food agreed with us—we relished the wide variety of local foods, including the wickedly sumptuous desserts and Turkish coffee. I even learned to read coffee grinds!

Turkey is such an exotic, enigmatic blend of east and west, ancient and con-tempo  Feels like we have barely scratched the surface, and I want to return and explore its richness many more times!